nickelass

Time is too slow for those who wait
too swift for those who fear
too long for those who grieve
too short for those who rejoice
but for those who love, time is eternity

- Henry Van Dyke

Plans change. As a general rule in my life, when plans change I tend to become reactive in my thinking, rather then adaptive. Yet, on the road it never really bothers me. In life, be nothing but flexible. Or so they say.

On the advice of a Dutch couple I met briefly the night before I decide to check out the Shinto shrine of Fushimi Inari Taisha rather than the rebuilt golden temple. I awake early having that blissful five seconds in bed when you do not know where you are.

Hey, this is not my bedroom! This is not Sydney. Oh that is right, I am on holiday in Japan. I do not have to do anything today. Sweet.

Breakfast before even father wakes, I exchange my house slippers for the dunlops. Sliding the door open I step out in the biting cold. The crisp chill gives me comfort like any winter day would. Two blocks down the road the Inn has disappeared into the fog.

Bus to Kyoto station. Only two stops on the JR Nara line and I alight at Inari. No expectation or education about what I’ve come to see. Out of the station I turn left then right. The fog has lifted and the sky is clearing as I looking up to see the biggest torii (gate) I have ever seen.

I was never really sure how long this would take or what I would see but as I walk passed the rōmon (main gate) I feel my legs yearning to put down a few kilometers and my mind in the mood of just taking it all it. I’ve packed lunch and water, boy-scout style. I read that the Go-Honden (main shire) sits at the base of the mountain but to be honest it doesn’t take me. Still there are interesting ceremonies going on all the time and the bustle of temple life is different. A mix of the sacred and purposeful.


That said I cannot take enough photo’s of the many kitsune (foxes it turns out…I kept thinking of Okami but come on… I know this word because of the PS2 game, I admit it).


I do not know why but today as I climb a mountain those foxes, with the keys to the rice granary in their mouths, feel like guardians looking over me. So with that in mind, today is a day for walking. I begin the climb thinking I’ll just turn back when or if I reach the Oku miya (inner shrine). Little do I know.


I quickly find myself in a rhythm of torri, steps, a temple every once in a while and a path that just goes on.
I catch up to this little old lady who is slowly but relentlessly climbing. I overtake her only to find myself overtaken when I take my time with a photo or stop to have a drink.
The path leads to the first of many private Shrines, this one with a little man made lake behind it.

After a short break the walk really beings to climb up the mountain. The sun plays rays of light through the forest down on the path before me.


After sometime I reach the top (?) where the path splits in three directions. Eating my food for a few minutes I look out over Kyoto. Debating if I want to keep going, the little old lady’s head pops into view as she slowly climbs step by step.

I take my queue, finish my food and keep going. The path takes me around the back of the mountain past a house with a ceremony going on. I look on from afar.
I am led down into a valley were a set of Shrines have been created into the hillside.



Moving on and heading down a hill I spy something on the path before me. There are many private houses along the path, usually close to one of the many mounds for private worship. So I’m not that surprised to see a kitty cat walking the path ahead of me.


Whenever I see cats in Japan I cannot help but think of Murakami (ok and Maneki Neko). I keep walking back down a path the skirts the edges of the complex and returns me to the Romon.
The clouds move over and it begins to rain. Taking the train back to Kyoto station I glance at my watch and it turns out that around four hours have passed. Overall my legs feel great and more importantly I seem to have found some peace inside that head of mine.

At Kyoto station I see the Shinkansen sign. Why not? I decide to visit Osaka because I can. The train that pulls in turns out to be the N700 series.
0 to 270 km/h in only three minutes. The normal Special Rapid Service between Kyoto and Osaka takes 24mins…the Hikari Shinkansen I’m on does it in 14 minutes! Perfect for the quick run to Osaka. Arriving at Shin-Osaka, I have lunch close to the station. We need these type of trains between Sydney and major centers.

Returning back to Kyoto it resumes raining and it is becoming colder. One thing I noticed this time around in Japan, the days actually started out warm and became colder as the day went on. Don't ask me why. I catch the bus to The National Museum of Modern Art and in keeping with my peaceful day I rest my feet on those comfy museum bench seats and look at Vienna meeting Kyoto. On they way out I pick up some postcards I’ll never manage to organise myself to send. The rain has softened and my feet strengthened enough for me to walk back towards the Inn.

I check out the Chion-in Temple with it’s powerful two-story San-mon (main gate). Compared to the other temples I’ve been to, this temple complex is at once very dominating and overwhelming.

After reading too many of the Tales of the Otori fantasy books, I’m ashamed to admit I am very excited to find that behind the main assembly hall is a uguisu-bari (nightingale floor)!
And yes, it does sing when one walks on it. I’m told you can even walk underneath the corridor to examine the way the boards and nails are placed to create this little burglar alarm system but I missed this opportunity. The sun begins to set and I walk back to repack my things before heading out into Kyoto downtown for dinner.

Sitting there at the bar eating, I feel like I’m ready to meet up with some people. My time in Kyoto has been just what I needed. I did meet some folks but choose to fly solo for a whole. Tomorrow I’m Tokyo bound to meet up with friends. Perfect.